The New Guide to Knitting & Crochet — Key Ideas to Explore

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Cooper, Marie Jane Project Gutenberg 2011 Not confirmed
Crocheting; Knitting; Knitting -- Patterns; Crocheting -- Patterns Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Edition facts

Words 12,721
Reading time 56 min
Text sections 2

The catalog record for The New Guide to Knitting & Crochet — Key Ideas to Explore provides practical reading context through 12,721 words, 56 min estimated reading time, and 2 detected text sections.

The text analysis averages about 27.7 words per sentence, while the detected sections provide another way to judge how the source is divided.

Project Gutenberg metadata also associates the work with “Crocheting,” connecting these edition facts with the source record’s subject description.

A practical 1847 guide to knitting and crochet patterns, including Siberian Cuffs, Baby's Hood, and edgings, with precise row-by-row instructions and a dedication to the Countess of Wicklow.
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Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections is found at the end of the text.

PUBLISHED By J. S. COOPER,

FOREIGN AND BRITISH DEPOT OF BERLIN PATTERNS, AND MATERIALS FOR LADIES' FANCY WORKS,

ROYAL MARINE LIBRARY,

MARINE PARADE, HASTINGS:

PARRY, BLENKARN & CO., LONDON.

THE NEW GUIDE TO KNITTING AND CROCHET,

DEDICATED BY PERMISSION, TO THE COUNTESS OF WICKLOW,

Whose kindness to the Authoress, will ever be remembered with grateful feelings of respect,

By her most obedient servant,

I venture to publish THE NEW GUIDE TO KNITTING AND CROCHET, believing it will prove both instructive and amusing to those Ladies, whose taste leads them to such pursuits. The Authoress being practically acquainted with these Arts, she warrants them correct, and trusts they will meet with a favourable reception by the Public, and be found a useful appendage to every work-table.

HASTINGS, January 1847.

Page _Siberian Cuffs_ 1 _Leaf Pattern for a Pincushion_ 2 _Twisted Knitting_ 3 _Vandyke Border_ ib _Open-knitted Lace Cuffs_ 4 _Prudence Cap_ 5 _Cardinal Cape_ ib _Shell-Pattern Purse_ 6 _A very beautiful Cap Crown_ ib _Head Piece for Cap_ 8 _Insertion for Cuffs_ 9 _Feather Pattern_ 10 _Edgings_ ib _Another Edge_ 11 _Leaf Stitch_ ib _Knitted Muff_ 12 _Long Sleeves for under a Dress_ ib _Opera Cap_ 13 _Shetland Shawl_ 14 _Star-Pattern Shawl_ 15 _Shetland Knitted Scarf_ 16 _Leaf Pattern for an Anti-Macassar_ 17 _Knitted Fringe_ 18 _Knitted Bag, with black, garnet, or steel Beads_ ib _Directions for a full-sized Quilt_ 19 _Chair Back Pattern_ ib _A broad open Lace_ 20 _Hour-Glass Pattern Cuffs_ 21 _A very handsome Mat_ ib _Ribbed Mitts_ 24 _Watch Chains_ ib _Directions for a Purse_ ib _A Bag to hold Wools_ 25 _Baby's Shoes_ ib _Toilet Cushion_ 26 _A Stocking_ ib _Knitted Fringe_ 28 _Carriage Boots_ ib _Baby's Hood_ 29 _For the Hood_ ib _Knitted Bustle_ 30 _Anti-Macassar_ ib _Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts_ 31 _Ruff for the Neck_ 32 _Polka Coat, for a Child_ 33 _A very pretty Fringe_ 35 _Under Sleeves_ 36 _Baby's Knitted Body_ 39 _Band for Baby's Body_ 40 _Edging for ditto_ 43 _Gentleman's Woollen Gloves_ 44 _To form a Pattern for the Back_ ib

_Directions for the different stitches in close and open Crochet_ 46 _Raised Crochet_ 47 _Chain Open Crochet_ ib _Single Open Crochet_ ib _Double Open Crochet_ 48 _Treble Open Crochet_ ib _Vandyke Open Crochet_ ib _A pretty Neck Tie_ 49 _A new Sofa Pillow_ ib _A Carpet Bag_ ib _A Neck Rest, or Cushion_ 50 _A Brioche, or Turkish Cushion_ 51 _A very elegant Bag_ 52 _Original Pattern for a Crochet Collar_ 53 _Plain Purse_ 55 _Mouchoir Case_ ib _Warm Muffatees_ ib _Raised Crochet Slippers_ 56 _Anti-Macassar_ ib _Shawl_ 57 _Watch Chains_ 58 _Ladies' Cuffs_ ib

Nine shades of wool used double, or double Berlin, either in shades of sable or chinchilli, look best. Cast on sixty stitches, knit three plain rows with the darkest shade; in the fourth row seam two stitches together; pass the wool round, seam two together; pass the wool round, seam two together, and so on till the end of the row. Join on the next shade, and knit three plain rows. In the fourth row, seam two together; pass the wool round, and seam two together the same as before; continue in this manner knitting three plain rows and an open row of each shade, until the ninth of white. Only knit two plain rows; this will reverse the shades: join the second lightest shade, and knit one plain row and one open row; two plain rows; continue knitting one plain row, one open row, and two plain rows of each shade; it will then correspond in appearance with the other side; then sew the two edges together, and let the join come in the centre of the wrong side, and it will look as though knit double.

LEAF PATTERN FOR A PINCUSHION.

Cast on each needle forty-five stitches, fifteen for each pattern. _First round_--pass the thread in front, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the loop; purl two, slip one, knit one, and bring the slipped stitch over the last knit, knit six, bring the thread forward; knit one; continue this till the round is completed. _Second round_--thread before, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the loop; purl two, slip one, and cast the slipped over; knit the remaining stitches plain; in the first row you have increased one stitch in every fifteen; the second brings them to the original number; knit these rounds alternately, making the holes (which occur in every alternate row) one stitch sooner each time, _i. e._, knitting five, then four, then three, then two, then one, instead of six stitches, and plain to the purled stitches, then commence as before.

Marie Jane Cooper's 1847 guide opens with a dedication to the Countess of Wicklow, signaling the work's intended audience of leisured ladies. The preface promises both instruction and amusement, and the index reveals a striking range: from Siberian Cuffs worked in nine shades of wool to a Baby's Knitted Body designed to be let into cambric. The patterns are presented as precise row-by-row sequences, often specifying needle sizes (No. 17, Eagle knitting gauge) and materials (Boar's-head cotton, double Berlin wool).

What emerges is a document of domestic craft that balances decorative ambition with practical necessity. The author's voice is confident—she warrants the patterns correct—and the instructions assume a reader already familiar with basic techniques. The guide is less a primer than a collection of projects for the experienced needleworker.

Patterns as Technical Prose

Cooper's instructions read like a form of technical poetry. Each row is a sequence of operations: slip one, knit two, bring the thread forward, take two together. The repetition creates a rhythm that mimics the physical act of knitting. For the Under-Sleeve edging, the pattern spans eight rows, then instructs: "Begin again at the first row." The language is imperative and exact, leaving no room for ambiguity. The Siberian Cuffs pattern specifies "nine shades of wool used double, or double Berlin, either in shades of sable or chinchilli, look best." This attention to color and texture suggests a reader who values both precision and aesthetic effect.

A Catalogue of Domestic Objects

The index lists over fifty items, from the practical (Baby's Shoes, Carriage Boots, a Stocking) to the ornamental (Leaf Pattern for an Anti-Macassar, Star-Pattern Shawl, a very elegant Bag). Several patterns recur in different forms: there are multiple edgings, fringes, and cuffs. The inclusion of a "Knitted Bustle" and "Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts" hints at mid-Victorian fashion and household decoration. The crochet section offers a Neck Rest, or Cushion, and a Brioche, or Turkish Cushion, reflecting contemporary interest in exoticism. Each project is a discrete unit, but together they form a catalog of what a well-equipped work-table could produce.

The Craft of Construction

Several patterns reveal how garments were assembled. The Baby's Knitted Body is described as "part of knitting, which is let into cambric," indicating a hybrid technique where knitted panels are inserted into fabric. The instructions for the front and sleeves are given separately, with the note to "cast off when proper size." The Band for Baby's Body includes a pattern row that creates an eyelet edge. These details show that Cooper expected her readers to understand garment construction and to adapt patterns to their own measurements. The guide is not merely a set of recipes but a manual for making.

Readers approaching this guide should come with needles and yarn in hand. The patterns reward careful attention to row counts and stitch sequences; a skipped instruction can unravel the work. Cooper's voice is that of a practiced teacher, and her patterns, though dense, are reliable. For those interested in historical needlework, this guide offers a direct link to the techniques and tastes of the 1840s. Work through a pattern slowly, and the rhythm of the instructions will guide you.

In my years shelving quiet companions, I’ve noticed how a pattern book like The New Guide to Knitting & Crochet holds the same patient promise as a furrow turned by the steel plow in John Deere's Steel Plow — Key Ideas to Explore. Both offer order from chaos—one stitch, one clod, laid down with faithful rhythm. That’s a rare, unspoken friendship.

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